by Nora Höfler/Bridal Times
The Groom’s Suit Guidelines- Interview with Cristobal Felipe Machhaus, Director International Sales of the brand DIGEL
It’s not only brides who face the big and pressing question about their wedding attire. The groom also wants to look and feel good on his own wedding day, and that only works if the suit is just right! But how does one wear a suit properly?
We asked Cristobal Felipe Machhaus, Director International Salesof DIGEL AG in Germany to tell us how.
Mr. Machhaus, can you tell us three main features you notice when a man has made the right decision in a suit?
First and foremost, a main feature is clearly the right fit. Distinguishable suit features for any passionate suit wearer at the moment are soft constructions on the jacket with round shoulders, trousers with pleats and visible cuffs on the pant.
Furthermore, a gentleman’s suit is selected with the right seasonal outer fabrics, such as “flannel” in winter and “linen types” in summer. Finally, the choice of the right accessories, primarily high-quality shoes with the matching belt, tie and handkerchief.
Ultimately, you should feel comfortable in the garment. This gives the suit character and uniqueness of the wearer.
Are there any models only recommend for certain types of figures or can anyone wear anything as long as it is the right size?
It’s most important to get the right consultation at your local retailer. The fit for different types of figures can then be solved via Mix & Match or a modular system with individual pieces. Personally, I believe that anyone can wear everything when it comes to the right size, along with honest and professional advice.
The wedding couple are congratulated by many on the wedding day. Any tips on how to avoid lipstick on the shoulder of the jacket or shirt collar?
The solution is to kiss a woman specifically on the mouth! A spare shirt probably takes care of this problem too!
Please take us from head to toe and give us a short guide to the perfect suit fit. Let’s start with the shoulders.
Slightly rounded, soft “sartoriale” shoulder that naturally adapts to the body.
(Note: Sartoriale is the Italian term for tailoring)
What should you look for in the hip?
A slim side cut, which emphasizes the casualness and sportiness of the wearer.
What is an optimal sleeve length?
The sleeve length must be chosen in a way that it shows from arm of the jacket. The sleeve length has to be about 2.5 cm above the thumb joint.
How should a vest properly fit?
The vest is a must-have for a gentlemen’s suit. Fashionably, I recommend a single-breasted 5-button vest with lapels.
Important: The vest should not be too short. In case of doubt, buy a size larger and then have it tailored slimmer.
How should a pair of trousers fit?
The trend is currently geared towards showing-off a bit more with a different range of trousers. I personally recommend a slim-fit trouser with pleats and small cuffs at the bottom of the pant. Fashionable suit trousers should end at the ankle, making it possible to accentuate the shoe with the socks.
What should be considered when wearing a shirt?
The shirt I see, especially for voluminous types of ties, is the cutaway collar since the tie is in focus. The fit must be right and go together well with the suit.
Do you think there any rules to the buttons?
A gentleman should only close the top button on the jacket.
What should be considered when wearing a tie?
In winter, the tie may be woolly and a bit voluminous. In summer, the tie is important to set color accents. It should be light, but must have a good firmness so that it can be optimally tied and decorated.
How do you wear a handkerchief today?
The handkerchief may look similar to the tie in color, but should never be the same. The tie and handkerchief must be in harmony with the suit and accessories.
Finally, how do you make the right choice of shoes?
Shoes are the emphasis of every passionate suit wearer. High quality, cleanliness, care and seasonality are the basis. The color black and brown are in charge when we talk about shoes accompanying a suit.
The editorial warmly thanks Cristobal Felipe Machhaus from DIGEL AG for this interview!
For further information in the German language, visit DIGEL- The Menswear Concept