Nora Höfler/Bridal Times
Blue skies and bright sunshine over the Plaza de España welcomed visitors to the Varmont Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week 2019, which took place in the historic Fira de Barcelona exhibition building April 23rd-26th 2019. More than 170 designers and exhibitors presented their 2020 Spring / Summer collections at the show, and the 36 leading national and international bridal designers showcased their creations for the coming season on the catwalk.
In front of the entrance to the green carpet, buyers, journalists and well-known personalities of the bridal fashion industry from all over the world are bustling. “¡Hola!” here, kisses there. We have arrived at #VBBFW19!
The event began at 10 o’clock in the morning with the Julia Kontogruni show. High-quality embroidery on wide, cream-colored tulle skirts, combined with corsair-like tops make the models look like modern princesses. The corset with dropped blouson sleeves and lush décolleté is reminiscent of medieval aristocracy and combines several of the top trends of 2020. The designer wants to awaken feelings of “the first day of spring”, with elaborate floral embroidery on sleeves and feathers on skirts made of wide tulle.
Isabel Zapardiez‘s stand-out collection is inspired by the world of the horse. Trousers, jackets, and asymmetrical skirts and dresses are reminiscent of the early years of equestrianism where focus was not only placed on functionality, but much attention was paid to style. Capes and boleros are a supporting element of the looks. And that makes one thing clear: Capes are one of the big trends for 2020!
The color palette includes all the natural tones of the horse and country life; White, cream, beige, brown and chocolate. Wedding dresses embroidered with fringes, and feather ornaments in the long hair of the models are reminiscent of elegant, curious dreadlocks. Backpacks, haute couture gloves and flat boots reflect the idea of a woman who lives her individual freedom, never leaving control of the reins to another. Broad shoulders and narrow waists provide the contrast between classic femininity and the modern woman, who seems well prepared for anything. And getting married in a two-parter is an absolute trend for 2020!
The Spanish high society of fashion occupies the first row at the Rosa Clará show, featuring her 2020 collection in the breathtaking La Llotja de Mar, a Neoclassical building originally built in 1380 with gothic interior architechture.
The collection is inspired by the Art Deco movement. Extensive cut-outs, flowing silhouettes, hair ornaments made of wide, glittering hair bands, and highlighted fringe or sequin shoulders are reminiscent of the roaring twenties. With the classic princess skirt and transparent tops, Rosa Clará remains true to her classic line. Tops in T-shirt look, lace or halter-top shape the current designs. Likewise, long sleeves and falling shoulders are always an eye-catcher. A great trend can be found here: Capes made of transparent tulle over a long mermaid style dress. An absolute dream piece for super modern brides: a snow-white jumpsuit with wide, smooth legs and pearl embroidered top with crossed back straps made of fine lace. Just as magical as the location itself!
Esther Noriega describes her inspiration for her 2020 collection as “the magic of medieval castles holding thousands of secrets”. Dreaming and romance, abandoned ruins, wind in your hair, these are the images the models are meant to evoke. The colors range from pastel shades to jet black. Long, narrow tulle with embroidered flowers and color gradients, deep cut back, and feathers on a transparent top invite you to dream.
One of the big trends for 2020: spaghetti straps to a wide, princess skirt. There were also trouser suits, in shimmering blue and taupe, the jacket reminiscent of that of a Spanish matador, adorned with feathers as a hem.
The details and colors within the collection are reflected from one design to the next; from blue to taupe, from taupe to cream over blue floral embroidery on translucent tulle. The mini dress in light blue, with feathers on the ¾-sleeves and on the hem of the skirt, is also reminiscent of the wild twenties. Even the black gown with layered tulle skirt and a semi-transparent, embroidered top remains in the memory of Esther Noriega.
Cymbeline describes the main inspiration for the 2020 collection the intense, deep blue which the painter Miró has used many times in his paintings. This blue is an elemental theme in the current designs. Modern, carefree Parisian brides are said to be charmed by this hue. And so, the collection is dominated by royal blue dresses made of silk and organza, oversized hats and trumpet sleeves on dresses with mermaid silhouette. Cymbeline joins the trend forecast 2020: Spaghetti straps with wide princess skirts, transparent one-pieces with shorts made of lace, all covered with a (feather) cape! A short wedding dress made of white silk with a youthful, short blouson jacket to complete it. Two-piece is also one of the top trends here for 2020, and is presented here perfectly: a crop top (sometimes lace, sometimes smooth satin) combined with a long, high-slit skirt, in mermaid cut or a flowing A-line. The falling, wide straps and low neckline to the wide skirt are seen here in white, blue or even in a white-blue pattern.
As the next chapter of the story, the Yolancris 2019 collection’s theme, “identity”, preluded the 2020 collection’s “freedom”. Strong women who dress as they please and whose style is a natural part of their personality. Individuality as difference, as exploration, as a form of experiment. “Let me tell you what freedom means to me: being fearless”, says the label about his current creations. All the trends for 2020 seem united in the Yolancris collection. Low necklines, also in combination with shirt collar, and transparent fabrics made of tulle and lace. Hats that remind us of French Chanel flair. Halter, two-piece, spaghetti straps on simple, narrow, classic, as well as long, high-slit skirts. Short dresses and feathers show clearly what the label means to depict as individual freedom. An absolute highlight and dream of a dress is the model with long fringes that act as falling sleeves and clearly evokes images of the wild twenties.
New York-based designer Madeline Gardner for Mori Lee describes her inspiration for the 2020 collection as Desert Dreams; Sand dunes with vanishing foot prints and wild landscapes are reflected in the simple silhouettes and lace-studded models. Romantic and dreamy, flowing satin, wide tulle skirts and – a top trend in 2020 – the removable train.
Beadwork and overlapping layers of tulle and organza create depth and dimension. Also here you can find spaghetti strap dresses, fine button plackets in the back as well as deep cutouts. Delicate shoulders revealed by falling straps.
The men’s collection by Ramon Sanjurjo celebrates the modern dandy. Jackets, blazers, waistcoats and trousers in green, blue and burgundy are reminiscent of avant-garde chic with vintage elements. Opposites are presented here, combining the elegance of the bourgeoisie with stylistic elements of the former French nobility. Introduced by smart boys who do not look like they need the right walking stick for their outfit.
The Maggie Sottero brand aimed to celebrate the strength and femininity of the modern woman with her 2020 collection. And that can be expressed wonderfully in the designs presented here with soft, playful layering, creating the perfect blend of romance and sparkle through glittering elements in the tops. Here we also see the predominant themes for the coming season: spaghetti straps, a black bridal gown, and many crème and rose gold designs. Especially nice here is a short cape that barely goes to the waist and closes at the neck.
Designer Demetrios created a line with “dramatic and courageous shapes with special embellishments and details” for the coming season. A lot of classic elegance can be seen in this collection, for example an A-line with deep cutouts in front and back, as well as floral patterns and embroidery on wide tulle skirts. Capes in sheer fabrics, a collar over a strapless robe and spaghetti straps on different models, as well as a feather border on a skirt. The colors are classic white, cream and champagne.
Sonia Peña calls her collection “13 moons”. Her designs are unusual and fresh in both color and design. Classic with a breezy, futuristic feel. Pants, jumpsuits and two-piece sets of wide, flowing chiffon with cool, wide capes are reminiscent of modern superheroes. The flowing fabrics and silhouettes make the outfits very sensual and elegant, super light and yet with a feel of importance. Here we see deep cutouts in front and back, shorts under skirts with high slits, crossed spaghetti straps, and flowing scarves as long and wide as a cape. The colors range from blue, turquoise, to beige, gray and black – the colors of the universe. Combined with large, round spherical earrings and occasional glittering Swarovski diamonds, the entire collection evokes a starry night.
The American star designer Randy Fenoli began his show with a small, one-piece in which he makes it clear: his collection should be for women all over the world, each should feel beautiful with their individual femininity. The designs are in white and cream, in classic A-line and mermaid look. Again, there are deep cutouts on the front of the neckline and on the back. Floral embroidery on tulle and organza are the special details of the dresses. The highlight at the end: a pink princess dress with floral embroidery and Randy Fenoli with his dog on the catwalk, on which the models throw pink rose petals as if he had married himself. This was fun!
The # VBBFW19 ended with the show by Pronovias, featuring a collection of superlatives under the motto “Beyond the Stars”. Shapes, materials and details of the clothes were breathtaking and highlighted many trends for the 2020 season. Many different silhouettes, sometimes mermaid, sometimes tuxedos, in the color spectrum white with golden, platinum and silver elements. Feathers and sheer elements underline the aura of beauty and femininity in every design. A unique show that will be remembered for a long time.
Here are the Pronovias fashion show highlights!